FAQ Answer Page

Q: What can I do about my dry, dehydrated skin?

A: Dry, dehydrated skin can be a temporary problem — one you experience only in winter, for example — or a lifelong concern.

Dry skin, also called xerosis, is a very common problem in modern life, affecting people of all ages, even infants. And scientists agree – because of a sharp decline in the Stratum corneum lipids (lipids are fats that are essential for the structure and function of living cells), especially the significant drop in ceramides (one of the more important structural components of the lipid barrier), by the time we reach age 40, our skin will almost certainly be dry and/or dehydrated.

However, some people experience the trials of a dry skin condition before they reach this time in their life. An increasingly stressful lifestyle coupled with continual exposure to the sun, wind and chemicals in the environment contribute to dry, dehydrated skin in people of all ages.

What is dry, dehydrated skin?

Dry skin, or alipoid skin, generally refers to skin that is lacking oil, whereas dehydrated skin is characterized by the lack of moisture in the Stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. Typically, cells that comprise the deepest layers of the epidermis have about 80% water content, while cells of the Stratum corneum are about 10% water. Anything below 10% is perceived as dehydrated.

Both dry and dehydrated skin is often irritated, inflamed and itchy, and it is generally worse in areas with relatively few sebaceous (oil) glands such as the arms, legs and torso, as well as the cheeks and eye area.

There is also a widespread misconception that dehydrated skin is the opposite of oily skin. “Dehydrated” refers to lack of moisture (not a lack of oil), while “oily” refers to levels of sebum or oil on skin. While adequate sebum does help maintain water levels on skin, oily skin can be dehydrated. Dehydrated skin may lack water only in the outermost layers of the epidermis while maintaining normal levels in the deeper layers.

Other symptoms of dry skin can include a feeling of tightness or tautness, especially after showering, bathing or swimming, skin that feels and looks rough rather than smooth, slight to severe flaking or scaling, fine lines, cracks that can sometimes bleed, and severe redness.

The top five causes of dry, dehydrated skin

These sources of dry, dehydrated skin are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable when combined with lifestyle changes and when under the care of a professional.

Intrinsic Aging
Intrinsic aging, also known as healthy aging, is the normal process of physical change over time that is more about genetics than lifestyle. (Lifestyle-induced aging is known as premature aging.) This process begins in our mid-20s, but, unlike premature aging induced by external factors, does not begin to show on our faces until decades later.

Dry, dehydrated skin is common in older skin, since the activity of the sebaceous glands in the skin tends to decrease with age, and the skin’s natural hydrators decline over the years. Aging also may cause blood flow to the skin to decrease, causing a drop in sebum production.

Over-Cleansing
The loss of existing sebum (oil) is commonly caused by excessive bathing or showering, scrubbing, or the use of harsh soaps that dissolve the protective layer of sebum. Often times, dry skin can affect the hands, as those in health care or food preparation must frequently wash to rid their hands of potential germs.

Cold Weather and
Low Humidity
Cold winds and low temperatures can dry out your skin, depriving it of balanced levels of sebum (oil) that keep skin lubricated. Without these oils, skin becomes dry, and is more prone to premature aging because of the lack of protective oils.

This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches.

Llifestyle
Nutritionists say that those surviving on a litany of diet sodas and fat-free fad food items are missing out on vital, skin-friendly essential fatty acids (EFA) and fat-soluble vitamins. (And don’t forget that fat-free foods often substitute sugar with artificial sweeteners that can cause skin sensitivity.)

An EFA deficiency can result in skin problems such as chronic itching, dryness, scaling and thinning, and lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (prostaglandins are chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation). The lack of “good” fats in our diets could also be contributing to the increase in the percentage of the population that suffers from
psoriasis, eczema and dandruff.

A deficiency of the mineral Zinc, which plays a key role in wound healing and in the metabolism of fatty acids and vitamin A, can also affect the integrity of skin.

Smoking can also have a drying effect on skin, as smoking inhibits the body’s ability to provide oxygen and nutrients to skin. Smoking drains skin (and the body) of vitamins A and C and restricts blood vessels (which equates to less blood flow) – meaning smoking is somewhat like suffocating skin from the inside. And, an excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin.

The Sun
The sun can also contribute to dry skin. Although many people only complain of dryness in the winter, others experience dry skin in the summer. Prolonged exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from the skin, which is why skin that has been recently tanned or burned often requires more moisturization than areas that were not exposed.

While many of us are responsible enough to apply sunscreen at the beach or when we’re spending a long time outdoors, there is still not enough understanding that cumulative exposure to sun can also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walk outside and an occasional lunch outdoors can add up to dry, damaged skin, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pink or red skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done.

Summer activities, such as swimming, can also contribute to dryness, as chlorine in pools and salt in ocean water causes skin irritation.

Proper treatment for results

There are many steps you can take to help prevent or lessen the discomfort associated with dry, dehydrated skin. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating and relieving dry skin.

An effective skin treatment for dry skin will include exfoliation to help prep skin to receive nourishing ingredients, the use of emollients and hydrators to replenish skin, and vitamins to help smooth skin, stimulate collagen production and increase skin’s natural protective barrier.

Exfoliation helps remove dulling skin cells while improving penetration of beneficial ingredients. The use of electric brushes will also greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients.
Galvanic current can also be used to increase product penetration. This professional tool creates gentle electrical currents that work to push hydrating and replenishing ingredients deep into the layers of the epidermis.
Emollients (such as Shea Butter and Organic Silicones) will help maintain soft, smooth, pliable skin and will act as a lubricant, helping to reduce flaking and moisture loss while improving appearance.
It has been scientifically proven that topically-applied vitamins do improve the health of skin. Vitamin A helps inhibit collagen breakdown while stimulating collagen production for more plump-looking skin, Vitamin B5 aids in wound healing and Vitamin E is an antioxidant that provides barrier protection while smoothing skin.

Research shows sunscreens formulated with antioxidant vitamins provide enhanced daylight protection against damaging UV light and free radicals. With this increased protection from antioxidant vitamins, there is no need to add more potentially-irritating sunscreen chemicals to create a higher SPF level.

Dermalogica’s Solar Defense System delivers this antioxidant technology through UV Smart Booster Technology, a microcapsule containing antioxidant vitamins that bursts upon contact with UV light, spilling the antioxidants onto skin, providing protection when it’s needed most.

Make sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing. Apply at least a walnut-sized amount of sunscreen to skin and neck before going out into the daylight, and after swimming or exercising, to impede the damage caused
by UV light.

Also important is proper home skin care products and techniques. Do not use hot water when cleansing, don’t use excessive or abrasive movements (instead, go for gentle, upward circles), and stay away from products that contain artificial fragrances or colors.

Keep your surrounding temperature as moderate as possible, and never place any heat directly at your skin. The use of a humidifier will also help add moisture to surrounding air. And when in colder temperatures, use a protective salve or extra rich moisturizer containing Zinc Oxide which helps soothe skin, provides anti-itch relief, moisturizes and promotes skin repair.

get mapped. get results.
Speak with your skin therapist about Face Mapping^SM, the skin analysis that breaks your skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin therapist can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin.

After your Face Mapping, your skin therapist will outline a home regimen for you to follow. This will help keep your skin it’s healthiest between professional treatments. Some of the products that may be suggested
will include:

Essential Cleansing Solution

Extra Firming Booster

MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque

MultiVitamin Power Concentrate

MultiVitamin Power Firm
for eye and lip area

Super Rich Repair

Extra Rich FaceBlock SPF30

MultiVitamin BodyBlock SPF20

It’s also important to note that Dermalogica products are free of the following ingredients known for increasing skin dryness as well as skin sensitivity:

• Artificial colors
• Artificial fragrances
• S.D. Alcohol
• Mineral Oil (skin sensitivity and congestion)

• Lanolin (skin sensitivity and congestion)
• PABA (found in sunscreens)

Jumpstart your healthy skin care regimen today! Ask your skin therapist for your free Face Mapping analysis and your customized zone-by-zone prescription.

Q: How can I avoid premature aging?

What is prematurely-aging skin?

Premature aging refers to the unnatural acceleration of the natural aging process and is induced by daylight exposure (90% of premature aging is caused by ultraviolet rays from the sun) and lifestyle choices (smoking, stress, or diet). These factors trigger a slowing of collagen production and a breakdown in elastin, reducing “turgor” (or the “snap back into place” reaction when skin has been pulled). The skin cell turnover process slows, and dead skin cells shed off of our skin’s surface at a slower rate. Other contributors to the quickening of the natural aging process are sleeping positions, repetitive facial expressions and gravity.

Premature aging isn’t natural. So what is natural? Healthy aging – also known as intrinsic aging, or the normal process of physical change over time that is more about your genetics than your lifestyle. This process begins in our mid-20s, but, unlike premature aging induced by external factors, does not begin to show on our faces until decades later.

While intrinsic aging is out of your control, you play a powerful role in controlling extrinsic aging. And the right lifestyle choices and a proper product prescription are your first steps towards maintaining healthy skin.

The five major causes of premature aging

A number of factors contribute to the process of premature aging (extrinsic aging). These causes are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable and preventable when lifestyle changes are adapted and when under the care of a skin care professional.

The Sun
Responsible for a litany of skin issues, and more importantly skin cancer, the sun really is our skin’s worst enemy. Scientific studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen, impairs skin’s ability to repair itself and attacks our elastin.

The damage is seen through deep wrinkles, age spots (hyperpigmentation), spider veins, a rough, blotchy complexion and a “leathery” look.

Cumulative exposure to daylight will also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walks outside and occasional lunches outdoors can add up to weakened collagen and elastin, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pink or red skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done.

Exposure to the Elements
Cold winds and low temperatures can dry out skin, depriving it of balanced levels of sebum (oil) that keep skin lubricated. Without these oils, skin becomes dry, and is more prone to premature aging because of the lack of protective oils.

This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches.

Smoking
Smokers are more likely than non-smokers to develop wrinkled, leathery skin, as well as a yellowish hue in their complexions. And even if you aren’t a smoker, being around a smoker can still cause damage to your skin.

Lack of Sleep / Stress
Skin is the first place to be affected by lack of sleep – the immediate effects of exhaustion are represented through dark circles under the eyes and sagging skin.

Stress is inevitable – just like aging! But it also contributes to premature aging. Often when we’re stressed, we furrow our brow, place our hands on our face and pull it in every which way direction, frown (where do you think the term “frown lines” comes from?) and twist our faces around, performing repetitive movements that impart permanent damage. Stress also results in heightened adrenal activity, which over time can lead to impaired health.

Lack of Exercise /Poor Diet
Lack of exercise can contribute to prematurely aging skin, as exercise keeps muscles tone and stimulates
blood flow.

A poor diet leads to a lack of nutrition for the cells and possible exposure to chemicals and preservatives. Fried and burnt food can also cause oxidation (free radicals from vitamins help counteract oxidation), leading to weaker cell structure.

Sun protection as your first line of defense

If the sun is your skin’s worst enemy, then sun protection is your first line of defense. And with new sunscreen technology that won’t clog pores, won’t cause irritation (redness and burning) and won’t feel chalky or greasy, it’s much easier to comfortably make sunscreens a part of your daily skin care regimen.

When selecting sun protection, look for Sun Protection Factors (SPFs) that are combined with stabilized antioxidant vitamins. Research shows sunscreens formulated with antioxidant vitamins provide enhanced protection against damaging UV light and free radicals. With this increased protection from antioxidant vitamins, there is no need to add more potentially-irritating sunscreen chemicals to create a higher SPF level.

Dermalogica’s Solar Defense System delivers this antioxidant technology through UV Smart Booster Technology, a microcapsule containing antioxidant vitamins that bursts upon contact with UV light, releasing the antioxidants onto skin, providing protection when it’s needed most.

Make sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing. Apply at least a walnut-sized amount of sunscreen to skin and neck before going out into the daylight, and after swimming or exercising, to impede the damage caused by UV light.

Proper treatment for results

When skin is healthy, premature aging is minimized. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating the signs of premature aging.

An effective prematurely-aging skin treatment regimen will include exfoliation, hydration, and vitamins to help smooth skin, stimulate collagen production and increase skin’s natural protective barrier.

Exfoliation helps remove dulling skin cells while improving penetration of beneficial ingredients. The use of electric brushes will also greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients.
Galvanic current can also be used to increase product penetration. This professional tool creates gentle electrical currents that work to push hydrating and replenishing ingredients deep into the layers of the epidermis.
Emollients (such as Shea Butter and Organic Silicones) will help maintain soft, smooth, pliable skin and will act as a lubricant, helping to reduce flaking and moisture loss while improving appearance.
It has been scientifically proven that topically-applied vitamins do improve the health of skin. Vitamin A helps inhibit collagen breakdown while stimulating collagen production, Vitamin B5 aids in wound healing, Vitamin C is an antioxidant that inhibits melanin, and Vitamin E is an antioxidant that provides barrier protection while smoothing skin

It is also imperative to recognize that the success of your skin treatments will be heavily influenced by your professionally prescribed at-home regimen and the wearing of sunscreen anytime skin is exposed to daylight. Also important is proper home skin care products and techniques. Do not use hot water when cleansing, don’t use excessive or abrasive movements (instead, go for gentle, upward circles), keep your surrounding temperature as moderate as possible (a humidifier can help add moisture to the air), and stay away from products that contain artificial fragrances or colors.

In addition, ask your skin therapist about products containing peptides. Peptides act as cellular messengers that regulate cell repair while stimulating collagen production. Peptides also help improve skin elasticity and tone while fighting the appearance of fine lines.

get mapped. get results.
Speak with your skin therapist about Face MappingSM, the skin analysis that breaks your skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin therapist can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin.

Q: What can I do about my Hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation can affect people of any skin color, and any race.

Very common and traditionally harmless, hyperpigmentation is an increase in color caused by either an increase in melanin, an increase in melanocytes, or the deposit of another substance that adds color by forming deposits in skin. This darkening of skin can be brought on by sun exposure, skin inflammation, medications, hormones, trauma, pollution and stress. It can even be the remnants of scarring related to acne or a surgical procedure.

While some versions of hyperpigmentation are not treatable, as they reside in the dermis (the dermis layer resides under the epidermis, and it contains nerve endings, collagen, elastin, blood vessels, oil glands and sweat glands), epidermal hyperpigmentation (the layer of skin we can see) is treatable, but with any skin condition, must be thoroughly examined before a proper regimen can be prescribed.

The sources of Hyperpigmentation

These sources of hyperpigmentation are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable when under the care of a professional.

source 1: Sun Damage
While pigmentation has many sources, ultraviolet light from the sun is the most common cause of pigmentation disorders. However, pigmentation caused by sun damage is most easily prevented and is the most easily treated.

The normal response to daylight exposure (UV radiation from the sun) or tanning beds is an increase in melanin production, which causes uniform tanning in most persons but leads to freckling in some.

Sun damage can also contribute to Solar Lentigo and sun spots (age spots), which are also known as letigines. They form mostly on areas of the skin that are left unprotected from the sun, such as the hands and arms.

On the opposite spectrum of hyperpigmentation is hypopigmentation, which is the reduction or loss of pigment. Vitiligo is an immune disorder in which pigment-producing cells are damaged, which causes smooth, white patches on the skin that can appear anywhere on the body. To date, there is no cure for vitiligo.

source 2: Medication
Medications are a frequent cause of sudden skin pigmentation. Most of the pigmentation is seen in sun-exposed areas, suggesting an interaction between ultraviolet light and ingested medication. Some known medications that can cause skin pigmentation include oral contraceptives, anti-seizure medications, anti-cancer medications, hypo-glycemic medications, non-steroidal medications, certain antibiotics, Accutane and Tetracycline.

Skin pigmentation caused by medication can be prevented by wearing sunscreen daily and applying it properly. See the section in this brochure titled Sun Protection as Your First Line of Defense for more information.

source 3: Photosensitivity
Certain ingredients found in cosmetics and fragrances will create a photosensitive reaction, which is an abnormally heightened response to daylight or ultraviolet radiation. Some ingredients that can trigger this reaction are Oil of Bergamont which is found in fragrances, and Methylene Blue, Orange red, Erythrocine, Fluorescein and Methyl violet, which are found in cosmetics and dyes. Avoid any products that contain artificial fragrances or colors if you are currently experiencing hyperpigmentation.

source 4: Hormones
Chloasma, also known as melasma or “the mask of pregnancy,” occurs when the sun-exposed skin on the upper cheeks, forehead, and/or upper lip turns a tan, brownish color because excess pigment is deposited in the skin’s upper layers. It can also show up when women take oral contraceptives. Men can also experience melasma, but it is rare. Scientists have found that men with melasma show low production of testosterone coupled with a higher level of LH (luteinizing hormone). when the sun-exposed skin on the upper cheeks, forehead, and/or upper lip turns a tan, brownish color because excess pigment is deposited in the skin’s upper layers. It can also show up when women take oral contraceptives; it can also be experienced by men.

Sun protection as your first line of defense

Whether you trace your hyperpigmentation back to the sun or hormones, sun can increase its appearance on skin. The daily use of sunscreen is your greatest weapon against further hyperpigmentation. And with new sunscreen technology that won’t clog pores, won’t cause excess irritation (redness and burning) and won’t feel chalky or greasy, it’s much easier to comfortably make sunscreens a part of your daily skin care regimen.

While many of us are responsible enough to apply sunscreen at the beach or when we’re spending a long time outdoors, there is still not enough understanding that cumulative exposure to sun can also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walks outside and occasional lunches outdoors can add up to an increase in hyperpigmentation, weakened collagen and elastin in skin, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pinkened or reddened skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done.

When selecting your sun protection, look for Sun Protection Factors (SPFs) combined with stabilized vitamins. Research has found that antioxidant vitamins are as important as sunscreens when defending skin from the aging and burning effects of damaging ultraviolet (UV) light and free radicals. When powerful, properly stabilized vitamin complexes are formulated with sunscreens, protection against UV exposure is enhanced. This also allows for higher protection without the addition of potentially-irritating sunscreen ingredients found in products with higher SPFs.

By making sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing (apply at least a walnut-sized amount of SPF15 to skin and neck) you can help prevent pigment in your skin from acting up, and help impede any other skin damage UV light can cause.

Proper treatment for results

A professional skin treatment is the best way to begin treating hyperpigmentation. During a professional skin treatment, your skin therapist can not only help assess what may be triggering your hyperpigmentation, but can help you manage it and prevent future instances.

An effective treatment regimen will begin as a series of treatments, taking place once a week for a six week period. Your treatments will rely heavily on exfoliation, and your skin condition will determine the level of exfoliation that will work best while triggering the least amount of inflammation.

Exfoliation helps remove pigmented cells while improving penetration of ingredients that help inhibit Tyrosinase (the copper-containing enzyme present in our tissues that determines just how much pigment is produced). The use of electric brushes will greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients.

Galvanic current can also be used to increase product penetration. This professional tool creates gentle electrical currents that work to push with Tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients deep into the layers of the epidermis.

In addition to ingredients that treat hyperpigmentation, your skin treatments should also consist of a thorough cleansing, the use of non-inflammatory products (as exfoliation causes skin irritation and inflammation, and can trigger post-inflammation hyperpigmentation), and should always finish with solar defense.

get mapped. get results.
Speak with your skin care professional about Face MappingSM, the skin analysis that breaks your skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin care professional can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin.

Q: Do I have Sensitized skin?

Up to 90% of the population perceives their skin as sensitive.

But do you really have sensitive skin? This inquiry is not posed to make you question your skin’s redness, irritation and discomfort. It is actually posed to point out that there is sensitive skin, and then there is sensitized skin, which is the growing phenomenon of skin experiencing sensitivity because of environmental assaults, cosmetics, poor diet and the natural aging process.

Sensitive skin versus Sensitized skin
A true sensitive skin condition is caused by a genetic predisposition. This genetic predisposition is found in those who have very fair skin and are usually of Northern European ancestry. This could be caused by the lower amount of pigment and a thinner epidermal skin layer (the epidermal layer is the top layer of skin we can see). Someone with truly sensitive skin is highly prone to blushing and may experience bad hay fever, allergies or asthma.

Sensitized skin can affect any person of any racial background or skin color. (Case in point: many people in Asia are experiencing skin sensitization due to the large amount of pollution in some parts of this region). Symptoms for sensitive and sensitized skin do have a lot in common (itching, burning, redness, flushing and stinging), but in many cases, sensitized skin can’t be seen by the naked eye, as it resides much deeper. And, our microclimate, or the climate we are exposed to in our home, cars, offices and during air travel, changes daily, meaning our level of sensitization can vary.

What causes Sensitized skin?

A number of factors contribute to the process of skin sensitization. These causes are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable and preventable when lifestyle changes are adapted and when under the care of a skin care professional.

Environmental Assaults
The fastest rising factor contributing to sensitized skin is environmental assault, as the epidermis is constantly exposed to assault from the sun, extreme weather and pollution.

1. The Sun
Exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from the skin, making it more prone to sensitivity.

There is still not enough understanding that cumulative exposure to sun can also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walks outside and occasional lunches outdoors can contribute to skin sensitization, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pink or red skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done.

Summer activities, such as swimming, can also cause skin irritation, as chlorine in pools and salt in ocean water are abrasive and drying.

2. Pollution
On average, our skin is exposed to an estimated 6 million chemicals, and roughly 2,800 of these have sensitizing properties. Extensive exposure to Nitrogen oxides (from road traffic, industrial heating units, etc.) and volatile organic compounds (from hydrocarbons and waste) contributes to the steady rise in sensitized skin cases.

3. Cold Weather and Low Humidity
Cold winds and low temperatures can dry out skin, depriving it of balanced levels of sebum (oil) that keep skin lubricated. Without these oils, skin becomes dry, and is more prone to sensitivity because of the lack of protective oils.

This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches.

Aging
Scientists agree that there is a sharp decline in the Stratum corneum lipids as we age (lipids are fats that are essential for the structure and function of living cells). Meaning by the time we reach age 40, our skin will almost certainly be dry and/or dehydrated. Without these protective lipids, skin is left exposed and defenseless against external aggressors, and the chances for reactions to the environment increase.

Ingredients
Certain ingredients in cosmetics can cause irritation and exacerbate skin sensitivity. More importantly, these ingredients can be found in skin care ingredients that claim to help treat sensitized skin! Some ingredients that can sensitize skin include fragrances, D and C colors, preservatives, and Lanolin.

Lifestyle
Nutritionists say that those surviving on a litany of diet sodas and fat-free food items are missing out on vital, skin-friendly essential fatty acids (EFA) and fat-soluble vitamins. (And don’t forget that fat-free foods often substitute sugar with artificial sweeteners that can cause skin sensitivity.)

An EFA deficiency can result in skin problems such as chronic itching, dryness, scaling and thinning, and can lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (prostaglandins are chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation). The lack of “good” fats in our diets could also be contributing to the
increase in the percentage of the population that suffers from psoriasis, eczema and dandruff.

Smoking can also have a drying effect on skin, as smoking inhibits the body’s ability to provide oxygen and nutrients to skin. Smoking drains skin of vitamins A and C and restricts blood vessels (which equates to less blood flow) – meaning smoking is somewhat like suffocating the skin from the inside. And, an excessive intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin.

Over-cleansing
The loss of existing sebum (oil) is commonly caused by excessive bathing or showering, scrubbing, or the use of harsh soaps that dissolve the protective layer of sebum. In addition, shaving without a protective medium or using dull razors can also weaken the skin’s barrier function, leaving it exposed to environmental assaults.

Proper treatment for results

When skin is healthy, a sensitized skin condition is minimized. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating sensitized skin.

An effective sensitized skin treatment will include gentle cleansing, soothing and anti-inflammatory-based products, hydration and pressure point massage techniques to help increase skin’s natural protective barrier while repairing previous environmentally-induced damage. The “less is more” rule should be followed during any professional sensitized skin treatment and at-home regimen.

• Points that relate to the sinuses, lungs and eyes can be targeted through pressure point massage to bring about relief to associated skin problems.

• A Dr. Lucas PulverizatorTM is a professional tool that creates a fine mist ideal for removing products from skin without causing the trauma or friction imposed by sponges or cloths. This fine mist can also be customized to include soothing and calming herbal extracts.

• Exfoliation can be performed on sensitized skin, but should be done only under the recommendation of a professional. A traditional product used is Daily Microfoliant®, as it does not compromise the barrier levels of skin, is non-invasive and less aggressive than other forms of exfoliation.

• Essential oils of Lavender, Sandalwood and Eucalyptus are ideal for hydrating and healing sensitized skin.

It is also imperative to recognize that the success of your skin treatments will be heavily influenced by your professionally prescribed at-home regimen, and the wearing of sunscreen anytime skin is exposed to daylight. Ask your skin therapist about Super Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30. This sunscreen utilizes physical UV-blockers instead of chemical UV-blockers which can sometimes increase irritation. Super Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30 contains
UV Smart Booster Technology – a microcapsule containing antioxidant vitamins C and E that bursts upon contact with UV light, spilling the antioxidants on to skin to protect against environmental assaults when it is needed most.

Proper skin care techniques will also help ease skin sensitization. Do not use hot water when cleansing, don’t use excessive or abrasive movements (instead, go for gentle, upward circles), and stay away from products that contain artificial fragrances or colors.

In addition, take note of what triggers the “red” reaction in your skin. Certain foods such as artificial sweeteners or spices can bring the flush look forward. Also be aware of your hormones, stress levels, physical exertion, adrenal shifts and
alcohol and nicotine intake.

After your Face Mapping, your skin therapist will outline a home regimen for you to follow. This will help keep your skin it’s healthiest between professional treatments. Some of the products that may be suggested will include:
It’s also important to note that Dermalogica products are free of the following ingredients known for increasing skin sensitivity: • Artificial colors • Artificial fragrances • S.D. Alcohol • Mineral Oil • Lanolin • PABA
Jumpstart your healthy skin care regimen today! Ask your skin therapist for your free Face Mapping analysis and your customized zone-by-zone prescription.

Q:How can Exfoliation improve my skin?

Will exfoliation help the health of my skin?

The fast answer is yes – exfoliation will help the health of your skin!

Skin exfoliation improves the quality and tone of skin by assisting in the removal of dead skin cells from the surface (the human skin produces about one million skin cells per minute, which equates to over five billion skin cells per day). As our skin cells renew, old surface cells harden and lose moisture, and eventually detach from skin to allow for new cells to come through (this process is called desquamation).

Desquamation also eliminates damaged and contaminated cells that carry pollutants and micro-organisms from the environment. These dead skin cells don’t always effectively fall from our skin, meaning they can dry and dull the skin’s surface, and cause clogging and congestion. Through professional and at-home exfoliation, these dulling skin cells are effectively removed, and newer cells are revealed for a fresher, healthier appearance.

Acneic skin: Acneic skin produces five times more dead skin cells than other skin conditions, meaning proper exfoliation can have great benefits for acneic skin. Hydroxy acids, in general, will be effective, as they help the dead cells detach, preventing dead skin cells from clogging the follicle and contributing to acne. (Avoid physical exfoliants / scrubs, which can worsen inflammation.)

Aging skin: When we are young, our cells renew roughly every 12 -19 days. But as we get older, this process slows down, as the “glue” that holds our cells together becomes denser. The natural sloughing of older cells from the skin becomes more difficult, causing a build up that results in dull, thick skin with less tone. On average, cell renewal takes from 28 – 35 days in mid-life, and up to 90 days in maturity.

Exfoliation is especially effective on prematurely-aging and mature skin, as it stimulates cell renewal faster than the body can on its own.

Hyperpigmentation: Hyperpigmentation is an increase in color caused by either an increase in melanin, an increase in melanocytes, or is from substance that adds color by forming deposits in skin. Exfoliation helps shed these pigmented cells more quickly, and will also help remove the dead skin cells so ingredients can more effectively penetrate hyperpigmentation at its source.

Dry, Dehydrated Skin: A lack of moisture in skin leads to gaps in the cellular barrier. Leaving skin feeling tight and stretched, many tend to overmoisturize, which sticks the older skin cells down, leading to a dull, uneven skin tone. Through exfoliation, dying skin cells are effectively removed, and moisturizing and hydrating ingredients can penetrate deeper into skin to help ease dry and dehydrated skin conditions.

When not to Exfoliate

If skin is sensitized, exfoliation may not be for you, as it
may further compromise your skin’s natural protective barriers. It is important to always follow the direction of
your skin therapist when exfoliation is a part of your
at-home regimen and professional skin treatments. What is an exfoliant?
An exfoliant is any agent that removes dead skin cells from the skin’s surface to reveal newer, smoother skin that’s underneath. When we exfoliate, we automatically cause skin renewal because new cells are stimulated to push towards the surface to replace the newly removed dead cells.

Exfoliants can be physical or chemical, and their usage is dependent upon each individual’s skin care needs.

Physical exfoliants use friction to remove dead skin cells, either through the use of a tool (such as a brush or sponge) or a gentle abrasive (such as Corn Cob Meal, Rice Bran or Oatmeal). Depending on the amount of friction and the nature of the abrasive used, results will vary. You can find Corn Cob Meal in Dermalogica Skin Prep Scrub and Rice Bran in Daily Microfoliant®.

Unlike physical exfoliants that remove debris through gentle abrasion, chemical exfoliants smooth skin by dissolving the intercellular “glue” that attaches cells to the surface. Hydroxy acids, Retinol, and enzymes (proteins that initiate a chemical reaction to break the chemical bonds of older cells and “digest” them) are a few examples of chemical exfoliants.

What about Over-Exfoliation?
The recent emergence of much more aggressive exfoliation treatments, such as dermabrasion and chemical peels, has lead many consumers to over-exfoliate their skin. Research at The International Dermal Institute indicates that a series of exfoliation treatments can actually be much more effective than one very aggressive lunchtime procedure. In fact, any skin treatment – including exfoliation – that causes the skin to become red and irritated is triggering the inflammatory response, which in turn accelerates premature aging. A more gradual approach, which includes professional-strength exfoliation treatments from your skin therapist combined with an at-home regimen, will reveal a dramatically smoothed complexion without any of the undesirable side effects.

Hydroxy Acids
Today we have many choices for exfoliation from Hydroxy Acids – Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic are just a few. Hydroxy acids are the most common form of at-home exfoliant because they are extremely effective and, when used properly, very safe.

Glycolic Acid was the first to be used in a cosmetic application, and is still widely-used despite its high incidence of skin irritation. Lactic and Salicylic Acids, which are as effective as Glycolic Acid, are now the choice of leading skin care professionals because they deliver the same level of results with considerably less irritation. In fact, Salicylic Acid has exhibited anti-inflammatory properties while effectively exfoliating surface cells, which is why it is a key ingredient in Daily Resurfacer. And Gentle Cream Exfoliant and Skin Renewal Booster are two great at-home exfoliants that use this combination of Lactic and Salicylic Acids.

Exfoliation and Solar Defense

Hydroxy acids increase sensitivity to sun as little as 13% and up to 50%. Because of this, the FDA (Federal Drug Administration) requires that sunscreen must be applied after any hydroxy acid exfoliation treatment – good advice for your at-home regimen as well.

Research shows sunscreens formulated with antioxidant vitamins provide enhanced protection against damaging UV light and free radicals. With this increased protection from antioxidant vitamins, there is no need to add more potentially-irritating sunscreen chemicals to create a higher SPF level.

get mapped. get results.
It is imperative to recognize that the success of your professional exfoliation skin treatments will be heavily influenced by your professionally prescribed at-home regimen. Speak with your skin therapist about Face Mapping^SM, the skin analysis that breaks your skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin therapist can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin.

Q:What is causing my Adult Acne?

A common misconception is that acne only affects teenagers. But more than ever before, adults are suffering with oily and acneic skin conditions. Unfortunately, adult cases of acne are often more persistent than teenage acne, which can be particularly frustrating for those who were spared outbreaks as teenagers.

The primary catalyst of adult acne is chronic stress. Balancing personal and professional responsibilities makes this generation of adults the most time-compressed generation in history, which contributes to chronic stress: the constant, continued and heightened level of stress that throws our adrenal glands into overdrive, which in turn can boost sebum production, setting the stage for acne development.

Adult acne can also be aggravated by internal and external factors. Internally, the psychological effects of adult acne can contribute to continued flare-ups and breakouts. When adults are frustrated by the signs of acne on their skin, it causes additional emotional stress, which contributes to a continued overactivity of the sebaceous glands and leads to the continued cycle of breakouts. Externally, the need to “pick” or “squeeze” breakouts places even more bacteria on skin.

The four main factors that contribute to acne development

While stress creates the trigger for acne, there are four main factors that contribute to the development of acne: overactive sebaceous glands (the production of too much oil), dead skin cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.

When overactive sebaceous glands produce too much oil, this oil spills onto the skin’s surface, creating a slick, greasy appearance. This excess oil acts as a binder, holding on to dead skin cells that were meant to be shed. The follicle becomes clogged with a mixture of oil and dead skin cells, prohibiting oxygen from entering. This creates the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, which leads to the swelling, redness and inflammation around the follicle, resulting in acne.

To successfully treat, clear and prevent acne, the cascade of events leading to acne development must be controlled: we must regulate the sebaceous glands, promote exfoliation to help shed dead skin cells from the surface, kill bacteria and soothe inflammation.

dermalogica’s new mediBac clearing™

Dermalogica’s new MediBac Clearing system is formulated specifically to treat adult acne. Each product, with its unique acne-fighting and clearing ingredients, is designed to be layered upon the skin to provide around-the-clock, maximum control of the four main factors that contribute to acne.

why is mediBac clearing more effective at treating adult acne?

Most products and treatments for acne are designed for teenage skin, making them too harsh and irritating for adult acne sufferers. The aggressive acne treatments created for teenage skin (which is more resilient) can cause adverse reactions on older skin, including flaking, peeling, excessive dryness and even additional breakouts.

Even skin in its 20s and 30s can be drier and more sensitized than teenage skin, can take longer to recover and can suffer extensive hyperpigmentation from past breakouts.

The MediBac Clearing system works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. The MediBac Clearing system controls acne without compromising skin’s integrity, which means skin is clearer and healthier.

Professional treatments for maximum results

Intensify the effectiveness of your prescribed MediBac Clearing home care regimen with a professional MediBac Clearing Treatment. Available only from a Professional Skin Therapist, this treatment will act as the foundation and maintenance program for healthy, consistently clear skin.

Using MediBac Clearing at home

Lather Clearing Skin Wash in wet hands and massage over face and throat, avoiding eye area. Rinse with warm water. Apply Clearing Mattifier to areas prone to oiliness, such as the T-zone. Apply Oil Control Lotion to areas where Clearing Mattifier was not applied. At night after cleansing, apply Overnight Clearing Gel to areas of congestion. Spot treat breakouts during the day with Concealing Spot Treatment. Two to three times a week, apply Sebum Clearing Masque after cleansing. Use over entire face and throat or exclusively in the T-zone. Avoid eye area.

New! Clearing Skin Wash A non-irritating cleanser that clears away excess oil while calming inflammation and eliminating acne-causing bacteria.	New! Overnight Clearing Gel Help clear skin with this overnight treatment designed to remove impaction plugs, eliminate bacteria and reduce excess sebum to help prevent future breakouts.
Reformulated! Skin Purifying Wipes These hygienic, refreshing wipes contain Salicylic Acid to stimulate natural exfoliation, clear impacted follicles and minimize breakout formation. Use after cleansing and throughout the day to keep skin clean and fresh.	Special Clearing Booster This 5% Benzoyl Peroxide concentrate, fortified with Zinc Sulfate, Tea Tree and Sage, eliminates bacteria while accelerating breakout clearing.
New! Clearing Mattifier A medicated topical treatment that clears breakouts, reduces congestion and controls shine while smoothing skin texture and diminishing fine lines.	New! Concealing Spot Treatment An intense spot treatment containing concentrated Sulfur to quickly dry breakouts, while a natural tint helps conceal breakouts. Ideal for people sensitive to Benzoyl Peroxide.
Reformulated! Oil Control Lotion A hydrating, oil-free, feather-light lotion containing additional microsponges to help absorb even more oil on skin’s surface and maintain an all-day matte finish.	New! Sebum Clearing Masque A cooling, deep-cleaning clay masque that purifies skin, refines skin texture and strengthens the follicle membrane to control inflammation

Healthy Skin by Darlene * 619-933-7381 * 7811 Mission Gorge Rd. Suite S San Diego, 92120

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